Storey's in the Dirt

Regenerative Farming & Food Sovereignty

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From seasonal rhythms to backyard basics, learn practical skills for building a more self-sufficient life. Whether you're keeping chickens, foraging wild edibles, or working with the land's natural cycles, these posts share real-world lessons from the homestead.

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Beekeeping Myths

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Updated Jul 2, 2025

Start: Myths and Misnomers in Beekeeping

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Water Fowl Nutrition

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Updated May 23, 2025

Start: Do Ducks Really Need Vitamins?

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Myths and Misnomers: Apiculture Myth #9

Pre-stamped Foundation Is Easier for Bees Truth: _Feeding bees their own honey is ideal—as long as you know its source._ Many beekeepers will repeat this rule without hesitation: _"Never feed bees honey."_ It sounds counterintuitive. After all, honey is what bees make for themselves. So why the caution? Where the Warning Comes From This advice doesn’t originate from nature—it originates from disease management in modern beekeeping. Feeding bees honey from an unknown or external source poses serious risks: * It could be contaminated with American Foulbrood (AFB) or other bacterial spores, * It may contain chemicals, antibiotics, or adulterants, * It could introduce foreign pathogens that your bees have no resistance to. So the rule isn’t really _"never feed bees honey"_ — it’s _"never feed bees someone else's honey"._ When It Makes Sense In natural beekeeping, the goal is for bees to overwinter and thrive on their own stores. But in emergencies—after a robbing event, loss of stores, or unusually harsh weather—feeding may be necessary. In those cases, feeding their own honey (if you have some from that same colony or apiary) is _vastly superior_ to sugar syrup. Honey contains: * Beneficial enzymes and acids, * Trace minerals and antioxidants, * Antimicrobial properties that support bee health, * And the scent signatures that keep the hive cohesive. The Natural Beekeeper’s Take If you harvest honey, consider setting aside a few frames or jars from each hive to use for emergencies. * Mark it clearly by colony or season, * Store it securely to prevent fermentation or contamination, * And use it when needed to keep the bees on familiar nutrition. Sugar water is just calories. Honey is medicine, memory, and microbiome. Final Note So yes, don’t feed bees random or commercial honey—it can do more harm than good. But if you know where it came from, and especially if it came from their own hive, feeding honey is one of the most natural supports you can offer. Let them eat what they made. That’s what it was for.

•Beekeeping

Myths and Misnomers: Apiculture Myth #8

— Never Feed Bees Honey Truth: _Feeding bees their own honey is ideal—as long as you know its source._ Many beekeepers will repeat this rule without hesitation: _"Never feed bees honey."_ It sounds counterintuitive. After all, honey is what bees make for themselves. So why the caution? Where the Warning Comes From This advice doesn’t originate from nature—it originates from disease management in modern beekeeping. Feeding bees honey from an unknown or external source poses serious risks: * It could be contaminated with American Foulbrood (AFB) or other bacterial spores, * It may contain chemicals, antibiotics, or adulterants, * It could introduce foreign pathogens that your bees have no resistance to. So the rule isn’t really _"never feed bees honey"_ — it’s _"never feed bees someone else's honey"._ When It Makes Sense In natural beekeeping, the goal is for bees to overwinter and thrive on their own stores. But in emergencies—after a robbing event, loss of stores, or unusually harsh weather—feeding may be necessary. In those cases, feeding their own honey (if you have some from that same colony or apiary) is _vastly superior_ to sugar syrup. Honey contains: * Beneficial enzymes and acids, * Trace minerals and antioxidants, * Antimicrobial properties that support bee health, * And the scent signatures that keep the hive cohesive. The Natural Beekeeper’s Take If you harvest honey, consider setting aside a few frames or jars from each hive to use for emergencies. * Mark it clearly by colony or season, * Store it securely to prevent fermentation or contamination, * And use it when needed to keep the bees on familiar nutrition. Sugar water is just calories. Honey is medicine, memory, and microbiome. Final Note So yes, don’t feed bees random or commercial honey—it can do more harm than good. But if you know where it came from, and especially if it came from their own hive, feeding honey is one of the most natural supports you can offer. Let them eat what they made. That’s what it was for.
•Beekeeping

Myths and Misnomers: Apiculture Myth #7

— You Must Requeen Every Year to Maintain a Productive Hive Truth: _Bees know when to replace their queen—trust their timing._ In commercial beekeeping, it’s common practice to requeen hives every year. The reasoning is simple: a young queen is typically more productive, and requeening prevents issues like swarming or brood interruption. But this mechanical approach to hive management isn’t always necessary—and can sometimes do more harm than good. The Industrial Logic Commercial operations are designed for maximum output and minimal risk. Requeening annually helps ensure strong egg-laying, reduces the chance of queen failure, and supports uniform management across hundreds or thousands of hives. But for small-scale or natural beekeepers, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer. Let the Bees Decide In healthy, balanced colonies, bees monitor their queen constantly. If she falters—lays fewer eggs, produces weak pheromones, or shows signs of aging—the workers will begin to raise a replacement. This process, called supersedure, is gentle, timely, and bee-led. It allows for: * A natural transition, * Continuity in colony rhythm, * And preservation of locally adapted genetics. The Natural Beekeeper’s Take Rather than forcing requeening on a schedule, focus on observing queen performance: * Is brood healthy and consistent? * Are workers calm and purposeful? * Is the hive expanding at a natural pace? Only step in if there are signs of distress, disease, or prolonged brood gaps. And when you do replace a queen, consider letting the bees raise their own instead of introducing a commercially bred one. Final Thoughts Requeening every year may work for industrial systems. But in smaller or natural setups, it can interrupt hive stability and erode genetic resilience. The bees know what to do. Sometimes, the best thing we can do is step back and let the cycle unfold.
•Beekeeping

Myths and Misnomers: Apiculture Myth #6

— Fall & winter Bees: You can feed or supplement with sugar water instead Truth: _Honey is bee medicine. Sugar is just calories._ A common practice in conventional beekeeping is to harvest all or most of the honey from a hive in the fall, then feed the bees sugar syrup or fondant to get them through the winter. This method prioritizes honey yield—but at a cost to the bees’ health. The Logic Behind the Practice The thinking goes: sugar is cheap, easy to mix, and provides enough calories for bees to survive winter. By taking the honey and replacing it with syrup, the beekeeper gets more product while still maintaining the colony. And yes, bees _can_ survive on sugar water. But it’s not the same as thriving. Why Honey Matters Honey isn’t just sweet. It’s packed with trace minerals, enzymes, antioxidants, and antimicrobial compounds that bees rely on to: * Support immune function * Fight off pathogens * Maintain gut health * Provide balanced nutrition Sugar syrup is just sucrose and water. It has no immune-supporting properties, and long-term use can increase susceptibility to disease and stress. The Natural Beekeeper’s Take Let your bees keep enough of their own honey to overwinter safely. How much depends on your region, climate, and colony size—but a general guideline is 60–90 pounds per hive. Supplement with sugar only when necessary: * Emergency feeding in spring * Rescue feeding after drought or colony loss * Bridging unusually long winters And when you do feed, consider alternatives like honey-based syrup, herbal infusions, or fermented bee tea that more closely mimic what bees would naturally encounter. Final Thought Stealing honey and replacing it with sugar may keep your bees alive. But keeping them alive isn’t the same as keeping them healthy. In a thriving system, bees feed themselves. Our role is to steward the balance—not extract until we need to patch it back together. Let them eat honey.
•Beekeeping

Myths and Misnomers: Apiculture Myth #5

— The Queen Rules the Hive Like a Monarch Truth: _The hive is a democracy—the queen lays eggs, but the workers make the calls._ The queen bee has a regal title, but she doesn’t wear a crown. She isn’t barking orders or deciding who does what. In truth, she's not in charge of the hive—she's the reproductive center of a highly collaborative system. What the Queen _Actually_ Does The queen’s main job is to lay eggs. During peak season, she may lay over a thousand a day. Her pheromones help unify the hive, signaling her presence and reproductive health. But she doesn’t direct daily operations. She doesn’t decide when to swarm, when to build comb, or where to forage. Those decisions come from worker bees collectively. Hive Mind: The Real Power Structure * Worker bees evaluate the queen’s productivity. If she falters, they begin raising a replacement. * Scouts explore new hive locations and report back with waggle dances—then vote until consensus is reached. * Foragers adapt to changing floral sources based on need, weather, and communication. The hive is what biologists call a superorganism. It behaves as one entity, but it's made up of thousands of individuals acting on shared cues and collective intelligence. The Natural Beekeeper’s Take Understanding the queen as part of the whole—not the head of state—helps you: * Avoid over-focusing on queen status alone, * Appreciate the resilience of hives that raise their own queens, * And make room for a more organic, observational form of hive management. Let the bees show you their priorities. If they supercede a queen, it isn’t rebellion. It’s health care. Final Note Bees don’t follow orders. They follow patterns, feedback loops, and ancient instincts. The queen may be central to reproduction, but the wisdom of the hive lives in the collective. When we shift from monarchic metaphors to ecological ones, we can see bees more clearly—not as minions of a queen, but as an extraordinary network, humming with intelligence.
•Beekeeping

Myths and Misnomers: Apiculture Myth #4

— Smoke Calms Bees Because It Makes Them Sleepy Truth: _Smoke doesn’t sedate bees—it triggers survival mode._ One of the most iconic images in beekeeping is the gentle puff of smoke wafting into a hive. Beekeepers have used smokers for centuries, and many will tell you, “It calms the bees.” But what’s actually happening is more primal and urgent than it appears. Smoke doesn’t lull bees into drowsiness. It doesn’t make them forget their stingers. It sends a clear signal: _Fire is near. Prepare to flee._ What Smoke Really Does When bees detect smoke, their natural instinct is to protect the hive by gorging on honey, anticipating a need to abandon the colony. A full honey stomach makes it physically harder to sting, and the increased food intake temporarily shifts their focus away from defense. Smoke also interferes with alarm pheromones (specifically isopentyl acetate), dulling their communication system. This disruption prevents a mass defensive response when the hive is disturbed. A Tool, Not a Tranquilizer Using smoke is not wrong. It’s useful for inspections, especially with large or temperamental colonies. But understanding what smoke actually does is critical to using it respectfully. Over-smoking or smoking too frequently can stress the bees, disrupt their internal balance, and even mask issues you need to see clearly. The Natural Beekeeper’s Take If your goal is to work _with_ your bees rather than against them, start by observing how your bees respond to disturbance _without smoke_. * Do they stay calm if you move slowly? * Do they signal alarm with a change in tone or posture? * Are there ways to minimize disruption without smoke? Use smoke strategically and minimally, like tapping the brakes, not slamming them. And always pay attention to how your bees respond _after_ a visit. Final Insight Smoke is a tool—not a magic wand. It doesn’t calm bees so much as it confuses and redirects them. In a natural system, clarity and calm come from mutual awareness, not manipulation. So use it when it helps. But never forget what it means to the bees: danger is close, and it might be time to run.
•Beekeeping

Myths and Misnomers: Apiculture Myth #3

— A Clean Hive Is a Healthy Hive Truth: _Bees have their own housekeeping rules—and over-cleaning can disrupt the balance._ There’s something satisfying about a tidy hive. Straight comb, clean frames, minimal burr comb, no mysterious goo in the corners. It makes the beekeeper feel in control. But bees aren’t concerned with neatness—they’re concerned with function, temperature, defense, and scent. In natural systems, cleanliness looks different. A healthy hive might have irregularities, sticky corners of propolis, and even a bit of mold in rarely used areas. That doesn’t mean it’s failing. It means it’s alive. Why the Myth Persists Modern beekeeping, especially in commercial settings, often emphasizes uniformity for inspection, transport, and production. Clean hives make it easier to spot disease or pests, and they’re more convenient when pulling frames for honey extraction. But standardized convenience isn’t always the same as bee-centered health. Propolis, for instance, is a resin bees use to coat and seal surfaces. It’s antimicrobial, temperature-regulating, and part of the hive’s immune system. Scraping it away can remove their natural defenses. What Bees Consider "Clean" Bees have their own hygiene behaviors: * They remove sick or dead brood (hygienic behavior). * They coat surfaces in propolis to prevent microbial growth. * They clean cells before laying eggs. * They escort pests to the door—or trap them in propolis coffins. Over-cleaning by the beekeeper can interfere with this. It can even erase scent maps bees rely on for navigation and task distribution. The Natural Beekeeper’s Take You can scrape where necessary—for inspections, ventilation, or swarm control. But resist the urge to "sanitize" a hive into sterility. Let bees manage their microenvironment, and step in only when there's clear evidence of imbalance. A bit of odd comb, a crust of resin, or a funky smell near the lid isn’t always a problem. It's often a sign that your bees are doing exactly what they evolved to do. Final Thought Clean hives may look good to us. But functional hives are what matter to bees. When in doubt, trust the patterns of the colony. Nature doesn’t care if it’s pretty—it cares if it works.
•Beekeeping

Myths and Misnomers: Apiculture Myth #2

— Healthy Hives Have No Hive Beetles or Intruders Truth: _Complex hives host guests—and your response should depend on what they’re doing._ There’s an idea floating around that if you spot hive beetles, earwigs, or other little creatures inside your hive, something has gone terribly wrong. But this isn’t always true. A living hive is part of a wider ecosystem, and it will have visitors. What matters is _how those visitors behave and where they are_. Coexistence vs. Collapse In strong, healthy hives, bees keep pests and opportunists at bay. You might find the occasional beetle tucked into a far corner of the comb, wedged into the edges of the hive, or slipping out when you lift the lid. That’s normal. The bees allow a small presence in the outskirts, especially if they’re busy and the weather's been turbulent. But when hive beetles or other creatures start turning up _in the brood nest_, or clustering in large numbers near honey stores? That’s a red flag. It usually means your colony is struggling to defend itself, and those secondary invaders are moving in. Don’t Panic, Observe Instead of reacting to the presence of a bug or two, take a moment to assess: * Are the bees actively patrolling and corralling the pests? * Is brood uncapped or being neglected? * Are the pests in the corners, or crawling freely across comb? * Are the bees behaving erratically or unusually calm? These signs tell you whether the problem is minor or if intervention is needed. The Natural Beekeeper’s Take Your hive isn’t sterile. It shouldn’t be. A complex ecosystem has moving parts, bacteria, fungi, opportunists, and defenders. Sometimes we think we’re seeing a cause when we’re actually seeing a symptom. Hive beetles don’t cause collapse—they thrive _in_ collapse. Learning to see that difference is part of becoming a better beekeeper. Trust your bees. Let the system speak. And when it does, respond with curiosity before correction.
•Beekeeping

Myths and Misnomers: Apiculture myth #1

— White hive To keep Moths away Myth #1: _Paint Your Hives White to Keep Out Moths_ Truth: _Color doesn’t stop moths—strong bees do._ Spend enough time around old-school beekeepers, and you’re bound to hear a few firm “rules” passed down like gospel. One of the more persistent ones? > _“Always paint your hives white—moths won’t lay their eggs on white paint.”_ It’s usually said with certainty. And while there’s often a grain of logic hidden in old advice, this one doesn’t hold up under a closer look—or under the watchful eyes of bees. What’s the Thinking Behind It? White reflects heat. In hot regions, painting hives white _can_ help keep internal temperatures more stable. That part’s true. And some pests, including moths, are more active in warm, humid, shadowy conditions. So, it’s not unreasonable to think white paint might make the outside of the hive a bit less cozy for them. But here's the thing: wax moths aren't looking for cozy siding. They're looking for weak hives with brood comb, where they can sneak in and lay eggs undisturbed. * * * What Actually Attracts Wax Moths? Wax moths (_Galleria mellonella_ and _Achroia grisella_) don’t care what color your hive is. They’re drawn to: * The scent of wax and brood, * Dark, quiet spaces inside hives or stored equipment, * And most importantly, hives that can’t defend themselves. A strong colony won’t tolerate intruders for long. Bees will patrol and eject pests quickly, often before they can even get a foothold. Moths prefer to sneak into _deadouts_ or _failing colonies_, where there’s less resistance and more leftover comb to infest. * * * So, What Color Should You Paint? That depends on your climate, your aesthetics, and your bees’ needs—not on moth prevention. * Hot climates? Lighter colors (like white or pale yellow) reflect heat better. * Cooler or shady areas? Darker colors absorb heat and can help bees stay warmer. * Multiple hives close together? Colorful designs, symbols, or unique shades can help bees orient and prevent drift between colonies. And for natural beekeepers? Leaving hives raw wood or using non-toxic oils, stains, or even vibrant folk art is completely fine—as long as you respect the bees’ space and don’t use anything harmful or overly scented. * * * The Natural Beekeeper’s Take Instead of asking, “What paint color keeps pests away?” Ask: * “Is my colony strong?” * “Is the queen healthy?” * “Are the bees patrolling their territory?” * “Is the hive ventilated, dry, and defended?” Because moths aren’t the problem—they’re often the symptom. A well-defended hive can tolerate occasional visitors. But when invaders start creeping in and settling near the brood, that’s your sign something’s off. * * * Final Word So, paint your hives white if you like the look—or if the heat calls for it. But don’t expect it to keep moths at bay. Your real defense is a vibrant, healthy hive, not a can of exterior latex. Let your bees speak for themselves, and watch the way they respond to their world. That’s where the real wisdom lives.
•Beekeeping

Myths and Misnomers in Beekeeping

— A introduction to Beekeeping Beekeeping tends to attract advice—from books, forums, neighbors, mentors, and especially the old-timers who swear by what they "always" do. Sometimes that advice is grounded in decades of real experience. Sometimes it’s a holdover from another climate, another time, or another style of beekeeping entirely. If you keep bees long enough, you’ll start to notice something: Nature doesn’t always fit into rules. You may hear that a tidy hive is a healthy hive, or that you must requeen every year, or that one specific paint color will keep pests away. But if you watch closely—really watch, season after season—you'll see that bees live in complexity. They thrive in systems that are resilient, not rigid. Sometimes those systems include wild comb, odd intruders, or signs that might seem alarming at first glance. This series, _Myths & Misnomers in Beekeeping_, is for anyone who: * Wants to understand the _why_ behind common advice, * Practices or is curious about natural or low-intervention beekeeping, * And is ready to trade rigid rules for observation, reflection, and relationship with the hive. We’ll cover old sayings, misunderstood practices, and the quiet indicators that a hive is out of balance—and what to do about it. We'll also highlight when a so-called "problem" is just part of the ecosystem doing what it does. Because in a living world, not everything tidy is healthy, and not everything messy is wrong. Sometimes, understanding what to ignore is just as important as knowing when to step in. Let’s explore the myths. Let’s read the hive. Let’s listen to the bees.
•Beekeeping

The Ancient Superfood Hiding in Plain Sight

— What Makes Silkie Chickens So Special? At first glance, Silkie chickens look like something out of a fairy tale—fluffy feathers, black skin, and a sweet, docile temperament. But behind their striking appearance is a deeper story: one of ancient medicine, rare biology, and surprising nutritional power. A Breed with Roots in Tradition Silkies have long held a place in traditional Chinese medicine (TCM). Known as "wu gu ji" or "black-boned chicken," they’re valued not just for their unique appearance but for their healing properties. For centuries, Silkie meat has been used to make medicinal soups and broths believed to support immunity, fertility, and recovery from illness or childbirth. Not Just Looks—Their Biology is Different Silkies have a rare condition called fibromelanosis, which causes black pigmentation throughout their body—not just in the skin, but in the muscles, organs, and even bones. This hyperpigmentation isn’t just cosmetic. It reflects a very different biological framework from other chickens, including a unique immune system that develops on a delayed timeline but matures with powerful, adaptive responses. Why It Matters for Your Plate The pigment responsible for their coloration, eumelanin, is a potent antioxidant. Antioxidants help protect your body from damage caused by everyday stress, pollution, and aging. But that’s just the start. Silkie meat also contains high levels of two bioactive compounds called carnosine and anserine. These are natural substances found in muscle tissue that: * Help reduce inflammation * Support recovery after physical activity * Protect brain cells and nervous system function In simpler terms, they help your body bounce back faster and may even protect your long-term health. Silkie meat is also: * Lean and high in protein, making it great for people watching fat intake * Rich in iron and zinc, two essential minerals that support energy, immunity, and metabolism In a world where many are turning back to nutrient-dense, whole foods to support wellness, Silkie chickens stand out as a bird with benefits that go far beyond the plate. In the next post, we’ll compare Silkie meat directly to commercial chicken—nutrient by nutrient—to explore whether this ancient breed lives up to its modern superfood potential.
•Livestock Management

How to Buy or Raise Silkies

— for Nutrient Density If you've made it this far in the series, you're probably wondering how to get your hands on Silkie chicken—or maybe even raise your own. Whether you're a curious cook, a backyard homesteader, or a small-scale farmer, this post will help you bring Silkies to your table with their full nutritional potential intact. Sourcing Silkie Meat * Local Farms and Markets: Ask around at farmers’ markets or local heritage poultry farms. Some may raise Silkies seasonally for cultural or specialty meat sales. * Asian Grocery Stores: Frozen whole Silkies are often stocked in the freezer section, especially in stores with a strong Chinese or Korean customer base. * Direct from Breeders: Many Silkie breeders will cull extra roosters or non-breeding hens. Ask if they process for meat. What to Look For * Pasture-Raised: Birds raised on pasture tend to have better muscle tone, more varied diets, and higher omega-3 content. * Supplemented Diet: Ask what the birds are fed. A high-quality grain mix plus access to forage makes a big difference. * Processed Whole: Buying the whole bird—including bones and organs—lets you make the most of its healing properties. Raising Silkies for Food * Brooder to Pasture: Start chicks in a warm brooder, then transition to protected pasture or tractor systems. * Feed for Function: Offer a high-protein starter (20–22%) for the first few weeks, then maintain with a balanced grower and foraged greens. * Protection is Key: Silkies don’t fly well and are more vulnerable to predators. Use secure coops and consider tractor rotation. Preparing Silkies for Maximum Benefit * Slow Cooking is Best: Low-and-slow methods (like crockpots or stockpots) preserve their dense nutrients. * Use Everything: Don’t toss the bones or feet—they’re full of collagen and minerals. * Pair with Herbs: Traditional herbs like ginger, goji berry, astragalus, and garlic complement the bird’s nourishing qualities. Raising or sourcing Silkies takes a bit more intention than picking up a plastic-wrapped bird at the store—but the reward is a truly functional food rooted in tradition, health, and flavor.
•Livestock Management

Precision Supplementation for Waterfowl

Premium— A Deep Dive for Serious Keepers\\ If you’re raising ducks, geese, or specialty breeds like Muscovies or Mandarins with long-term performance in mind, you already know that general feed isn’t enough. Strategic supplementation is key to optimal growth, fertility, disease resistance, and egg quality. This guide dives deep into how and why to supplement intelligently by species, season, and life stage. Niacin: Beyond the Basics Waterfowl, especially during rapid growth, require significantly more niacin (Vitamin B3) than other poultry. But form matters: * Niacinamide vs. Nicotinic Acid: Both are effective for ducks, though niacinamide tends to be more palatable and less likely to cause flushing. * Deficiency Signs: Bowed legs, lethargy, hock swelling, or water-walking syndrome (paddling but unable to stand). * Advanced Application: Supplement 60–70 mg/day per duckling in weeks 1–8. For specialty breeds or birds with metabolic demands, up to 80 mg/day is well tolerated. Formulated Additions: Many commercial waterfowl feeds under-deliver on niacin. Blend your own supplement mix or top-dress feed with brewer’s yeast or lab-tested niacinamide powder. Calcium, Phosphorus & the Laying Curve * Laying Females: Require not just calcium (3.5%+ in diet) but the right ratio to phosphorus (ideally 2:1). * Signs of Imbalance: Thin eggshells, egg binding, aggressive behavior, or soft bones. * Solution: Use lab-grade calcium carbonate or crushed oyster shell (free-choice). Add kelp meal for micronutrient balance. The Role of Probiotics & Fermentation * Why it matters: Gut microbiota influences everything from feed conversion to disease resistance. * Methods: * Add fermented grains to improve vitamin synthesis. * Use LAB (lactic acid bacteria) serum weekly to stabilize gut flora. * Rotate commercial probiotics to avoid strain resistance. Seasonal Adjustment Framework Season Focus Nutrients Tips Spring Niacin, probiotics, calcium Breeding, molting, and early growth support Summer Electrolytes, antioxidants Heat stress, water-soluble vitamins (A, D, E) Fall Vitamin D3, selenium, omega fats Feather quality, molt recovery, immune priming Winter Vitamin A, D, E, and heat support Fortify feed with fermented kelp, extra oils Specialty Breeds & Exotic Waterfowl * Muscovies: Require higher protein and are niacin-sensitive; often benefit from black soldier fly larvae and sprouted grains. * Mandarins & Ornamental Ducks: Susceptible to stress-induced deficiencies. Use adaptogens (ashwagandha, kelp) and maintain higher baseline B-complex intake. * Geese: Digest high-fiber diets but need B12 support in confinement. DIY Supplement Blends Formulate your own top-dress using this base per 10 lb of feed: * 3 tbsp Brewer’s Yeast * 2 tsp Kelp Meal * 1 tsp Crushed Eggshell or Oyster Shell (if laying) * 400 mg Niacinamide * Optional: 1 tsp powdered spirulina or dried nettles Warning: Don’t Overdo It * Monitor signs of overdose (excess urination, kidney strain). * Always adjust dose based on feed type, forage access, and bird age. * * * Call to Action: Download our Deep Dive Supplement Tracker Spreadsheet or join the Members Portal to access our waterfowl-specific feed formulation calculator and seasonal planning calendar!
•Systems Thinking

Starter Supplement Guide for Ducks and Geese

— Niacin, Grit, & More Raising ducks or geese for the first time? Whether you’re starting a backyard flock or building a small homestead, getting nutrition right from the beginning is one of the best things you can do for their long-term health. While feed is the foundation, supplements help bridge nutritional gaps and support strong growth, immunity, and productivity. Choosing the Right Feed Start with a non-medicated waterfowl starter or an all-flock feed that includes a higher niacin content than standard chick starter. Look for feeds labeled for ducks or geese if available, as they’re often formulated with the right balance of protein and B-vitamins. But even with a good base feed, most homesteaders supplement. Here’s why—and how. Key Supplements to Consider Niacin (Vitamin B3) * Why it matters: Crucial for bone growth and joint health. * How to supplement: Use pure niacinamide powder or add brewer’s yeast to feed. * Dose: ~55–70 mg per duckling daily. Adults need ~30–40 mg. Brewer’s Yeast * Why it matters: Rich in B vitamins including niacin; supports energy and immune function. * How to use: Mix into moistened feed at 1–2 tablespoons per cup of feed. Grit * Why it matters: Helps grind and digest whole grains, greens, and bugs. * How to use: Offer in a separate dish free-choice. Use chick grit for young birds. Oyster Shell or Crushed Eggshell * Why it matters: Provides calcium for layers to build strong eggshells. * When to use: Only offer to actively laying females. Seasonal Supplement Tips * Spring/Summer: Extra niacin for fast growth. Add probiotics or fermented feed to support digestion. * Fall/Winter: More calcium and vitamin D as sunlight decreases. Offer vitamin supplements if birds are indoors. Starter Supplement Schedule Supplement Ducklings (0–8 wks) Adult Ducks Laying Ducks Geese Niacin Yes (Daily) Yes Yes Yes Brewer’s Yeast Yes Optional Yes Yes Grit Yes (Chick grit) Yes Yes Yes Oyster Shell No No Yes (Free-choice) Yes (if laying) Safety Notes * Avoid “flush-free” niacin (inositol hexanicotinate)—it’s not bioavailable to birds. * Always introduce new supplements gradually. * Fresh water is essential when adding any powder to the diet. * * * Call to Action: Curious how to dose niacin by flock size? Our next blog will include a flock-size calculator and printable supplement tracker for your barn wall!
•Livestock Management

Do Ducks Really Need Vitamins?

— What to Know About Waterfowl Nutrition When most people think of feeding ducks or geese, they imagine tossing bread into a pond or letting them nibble on kitchen scraps. But the truth is, these charming birds have very specific nutritional needs, especially when raised at home or on a homestead. One key part of their health? Vitamins! Why Vitamins Matter for Waterfowl Vitamins help regulate everything from bone growth to feather quality, immune health to reproduction. Just like humans, ducks and geese can suffer from deficiencies if their diet isn't well-rounded. One of the most important vitamins for waterfowl is niacin, or vitamin B3. This crucial nutrient helps support healthy bones, especially in growing ducklings and goslings. Without enough niacin, young birds can develop leg deformities and mobility issues. Can Ducks and Geese Just Eat Chicken Feed? Not exactly. While chick starter is often used for ducklings, it usually doesn’t have enough niacin. Waterfowl require significantly more niacin than chickens. That’s why many duck keepers supplement their flock's diet with niacin-rich additives like brewers yeast or pure niacinamide powder. Common Supplements to Know Here are a few common supplements beginner waterfowl keepers might consider: * Niacin (Vitamin B3): Essential for leg and bone development. * Brewer’s Yeast: A natural source of B vitamins, often mixed into feed. * Grit: Helps with digestion, especially if birds are eating anything other than pellets. * Oyster Shell: For layers, helps provide the calcium needed for strong eggshells. Signs of a Vitamin Deficiency Not sure if your ducks or geese are missing something in their diet? Watch for these early signs: * Wobbly legs or reluctance to walk * Poor feather condition * Slow growth * Reduced egg production Quick Tip for Beginners You don’t need to go overboard with supplements. A good waterfowl feed, access to greens and bugs, and a sprinkle of brewer's yeast or a tiny pinch of niacin in the water during early growth stages goes a long way. * * * Call to Action: Want to learn how to mix niacin safely into your duckling’s water? Or how to build a feed plan for geese through all four seasons? Check out our upcoming blogs in the Waterfowl Supplement Series for beginner-friendly guides and printable charts!
•Livestock Management

Precision Supplementation

— for Heritage, Exotic, and Breeding Waterfowl For those managing breeding flocks, heritage lines, or exotic waterfowl, supplementation is no longer optional—it is strategic. Birds under these conditions have higher nutritional demands, stress sensitivity, and performance expectations. This pro-level guide focuses on detailed, science-backed practices for ensuring top-tier reproductive success, immune health, and long-term vitality. Microdosing for Performance * Niacin: Maintain precision dosing by flock size and life stage. Use lab-scale spoons and digital scales to dose: * 80 mg/day for breeding-age specialty ducks (e.g., Mandarins, Wood Ducks) * 100 mg/day during peak lay or when fertility declines * Delivery: Use water-soluble niacinamide or blend into fermented mash. Pair with weekly LAB doses to support gut uptake. Fermentation for Bioavailability * LAB (Lactic Acid Bacteria): Administer 1 tsp LAB per 1 qt water weekly or mix into wet feed. * FPJ (Fermented Plant Juice): Rotate seasonally (spring: comfrey/dandelion; fall: kelp/nettle). * JMS (JADAM Microbial Solution): Used monthly for aviary or pasture sanitation and microbial balancing. Fertility & Hatch Success * Vitamin E + Selenium: Boost sperm viability and egg quality. Supplement 5–10 IU/day Vitamin E per bird, and 0.3 ppm selenium. * Biotin, Zinc & Omega 3s: For shell strength, hatchability, and feather health. * Use flax meal, black oil sunflower seeds, and sprouted chia. Breeding Conditioning Protocol Phase Focus Supplements Notes Pre-Breeding Niacin, Vit E/Selenium, LAB Start 4 weeks prior to pair-up or egg-lay Active Breeding Calcium, Omega 3, Zinc Rotate fermentations, use kelp-based minerals Post-Lay/Recovery B-complex, Probiotics, Biotin Feather regrowth, nutrient rebuilding Environmental Influence * Indoor Aviaries: Require year-round D3 and air-exchange microbial sprays (JMS or IMO2). * Rotational Paddocks: Soil supplements can influence forage quality. Add IMO4 and leaf mold tea to promote native fungal/bacterial balance. Scaling Up Ethically * Maintain genetic diversity: Avoid over-supplementation that masks poor genetics. * Use rotational pairing systems and monitor fertility outcomes with hatch logs. * Document supplement batches and timing: Track results across seasons. Tools for Advanced Keepers * Supplement Log Template (Downloadable) * Seasonal Feed Formulation Spreadsheet * Breeder Record Sheet with Supplement Tracker * Input Sourcing List with Tested Lab-Grade Vendors
•Livestock Management

Waterfowl Nutrient Supplements

— Advanced Supplementation Science for Heritage, Exotic, and Breeding Waterfowl For advanced farmers, homesteaders, and breeders, managing waterfowl nutrition transcends general care. It becomes a detailed practice rooted in nutritional biochemistry, environmental modulation, and genetic conservation. This guide presents an evidence-based, practice-informed approach to advanced supplementation with citations, tools, and protocols tailored for heritage, exotic, and high-performance waterfowl. * * * I. Nutritional Demands by Breed Class Niacin (Vitamin B3) * Core Function: Niacin supports mitochondrial energy metabolism and fatty acid synthesis. * Special Needs: Ducks and geese cannot synthesis sufficient niacin from tryptophan, unlike chickens. * Clinical Range: Ducklings require 55–70 mg/kg of feed; breeders may need 80–100 mg/day. * Sources: Niacinamide is preferred due to palatability and stability in water. Citation: National Research Council (NRC). _Nutrient Requirements of Poultry_, 9th ed. Washington, D.C.: The National Academies Press, 1994. Selenium and Vitamin E * Function: Antioxidant synergy; supports fertility and embryonic development. * Deficiency Risks: Muscular dystrophy, poor hatch rates. * Dosing: Selenium 0.3 ppm and Vitamin E 10–25 IU/day. Citation: Surai, P.F. (2006). _Selenium in Nutrition and Health_. Nottingham University Press. Zinc, Manganese, and Biotin * Function: Eggshell formation, enzyme function, feather integrity. * Note: Use chelated forms for higher bioavailability. Citation: Leeson, S., Summers, J.D. (2008). _Commercial Poultry Nutrition_. 3rd Ed. * * * II. Fermentation and Bioactive Nutrient Conversion LAB (Lactic Acid Bacteria) * Mechanism: Enhances mineral bioavailability and suppresses pathogenic bacteria. * Application: 1–2 tsp LAB serum per quart of water weekly; adjust for flock size. FPJ (Fermented Plant Juice) * Application: Foliar spray and feed mix-in. * Recommended Rotations: * Spring: Dandelion, comfrey, chickweed * Summer: Purslane, sweet potato leaves * Fall: Nettles, kelp, mugwort Citation: Cho, Han-Kyu. _JADAM Organic Farming_, 2016. JMS (JADAM Microbial Solution) * Use: Sanitation, pasture spray, and bedding inoculation. * Mechanism: Introduces competitive microorganisms to regulate pathogens and odors. * * * III. Conditioning Breeding Stock Phase Supplements & Practices Notes Pre-Breeding Niacin, Vitamin E/Selenium, FPJ, LAB Begin 4–6 weeks before pair-up or fertility window Breeding Peak Zinc, Manganese, Omega-3 (flax, chia), probiotics Ensure mineral balance, feather quality, sperm motility Post-Lay Recovery Biotin, B-complex, spirulina, fermented grains Feather regrowth, metabolic recovery Hatchability Tip: * Rotate microgreens and ferment-based feeds for hens to boost yolk micronutrient density. * Use non-GMO sunflower meal and spirulina to raise yolk beta-carotene and DHA. Citation: Gita, S. et al. (2014). Effect of dietary spirulina on egg yolk quality in ducks. _Journal of Applied Poultry Research_, 23(1), 94–102. * * * IV. Infrastructure and Ecosystem Inputs * Indoor Aviaries: Require supplemental D3 (1,000–2,000 IU/kg feed) due to lack of UVB. * Pasture Systems: Supplement IMO4 and FPJ to increase forage mineralization. * Soil-Affecting Supplements: Use foliar sprays of sea minerals and bio-ferments to close the loop between soil and bird nutrition. * * * V. Advanced Tracking and Data Systems * Daily Logs: Monitor feed intake, supplement timing, reproductive activity, and excreta. * Batch Logs: Track fermentation inputs and outcomes (pH, temperature, inoculation date). * Seasonal Feed Formulations: Adjust macronutrient levels based on temperature, day length, and reproductive status. * * * VI. Sourcing and Lab Validation * Niacinamide: Test for purity (>99%) and solubility; source from vendors offering certificates of analysis. * Kelp Meal: Ensure iodine levels are specified (~0.4% typical); test for heavy metals. * Calcium and Mineral Mixes: Use poultry-specific ratios; avoid dolomitic lime. * * * VII. Summary Advanced supplementation for waterfowl bridges nutritional science, regenerative agriculture, and breed stewardship. It requires continuous adaptation, observation, and data-backed decision-making. Precision, sourcing integrity, and fermentation are your allies in building resilient, productive flocks.
•Livestock Management

Getting Started with KNF Chickens

— A Foundational Guide for Backyard Growers If you're raising chickens and looking to ditch store-bought supplements in favor of a natural, DIY approach, Korean Natural Farming (KNF) offers a practical and affordable path forward. This guide will help you start integrating KNF into your chicken care with simple how-tos, equipment tips, and an introduction to the living ingredients that make it all work. * * * Why KNF for Chickens? KNF is built on the idea that nature provides everything we need to support healthy soil, plants, and animals. When applied to chickens, KNF helps: * Strengthen immune systems * Eliminate coop odor * Improve egg production * Reduce dependence on commercial feed and additives Instead of treating problems, KNF focuses on creating balance using microbes, minerals, and fermentation. * * * Basic Equipment You’ll Need You don’t need a lab or expensive gear. Here’s a basic list of low-cost items to get started: * Various-sized jars (no metal lids, plastic lids or cheesecloth, paper towels, or coffee filter for breathable tops) * Mixing bowls and strainer (I use an extra large pour over coffee maker) * Brown sugar * Garlic, ginger, Turmeric, Cinnamon Chips, seasonal herbs * Clean rainwater or unchlorinated well water * Raw milk, rice wash water * Cooked rice and a good box (for IMO collection) Most items can be sourced from your kitchen or backyard. * * * KNF Language Basics These are the KNF terms you’ll come across as you build your system: * FPJ (Fermented Plant Juice): Made from weeds and sugar, used to boost metabolism and provide plant-based nutrients. * LAB (Lactic Acid Bacteria): A probiotic used to improve gut health and break down waste. * OHN (Oriental Herbal Nutrient): A tonic made with herbs like garlic and ginger to boost immunity. * IMO (Indigenous Microorganisms): Local microbes that promote decomposition and balance in bedding and compost. You can find printable recipe cards for each of these on the Recipe Cards landing page. * * * Microbes and Minerals at Work Here’s what’s active in your KNF inputs: * LAB: Lactobacillus balances gut microbes and breaks down ammonia. * FPJ: Delivers plant hormones, enzymes, and trace minerals. * OHN: Contains natural antimicrobials like allicin from garlic. * IMO: Boosts composting and keeps bedding biologically active. These ingredients don’t just support health—they _build it_. * * * Seasonal Input Schedule for Chickens Season Purpose Inputs Spring _Metabolism + gut health_ FPJ, LAB, OHN Summer _Heat + stress recovery_ Cooling FPJ, LAB Fall _Immunity + composting_ OHN, IMO, LAB Winter _Odor + digestion support_ IMO bedding, LAB water Start small—one input per week—then layer as your system matures. * * * Do’s and Don’ts DO: * Use clean tools and non-metal containers * Label and date your jars, at everystage and always * Start with one input at a time * Observe your birds and bedding DON’T: * Mix multiple new inputs at once * Skip the brown or raw sugar (it feeds the microbes) * Use chlorinated water, EVER. It defeats the point. * * * Build as You Go This is your foundational level—where you learn to observe, ferment, and support your animals with what’s already around you. KNF doesn’t require perfection, just curiosity and consistency. Ready to go deeper? Start with LAB—it’s the backbone of the system and a great first fermentation project. * * * Coming up next: We'll walk through your first LAB fermentation and how to apply it to waterers, bedding, and compost. For all current recipe cards, visit the Recipe Card Library.
•Korean Natural Farming (KNF)

Slower, On Purpose

— A Shift Toward Stewardship There’s a point...sometimes it sneaks up, other times it hits all at once. When the noise fades, a different rhythm takes over. A pull toward the garden, toward animals, and toward your own land. It doesn’t always have a name, but it comes with weight. And what we call it may help to process this change. Words May Matter Putting a name to something helps clarify what it is. Slowing down isn’t failure. It’s often the most deliberate choice a person can make. When you define this season as a shift, or simply a change in focus, it becomes easier to own it. You’re not walking away. You’re stepping into something else. Terms & Their Roots People have tried to give this shift a name. Some of those terms might feel unfamiliar, but they carry cultural or sentimental weight: * Second Bloom Used to describe a period of rediscovery-often later in life-where joy is found in simplicity and hands-on living. It’s about finding new energy for old values. * Season of Stillness / Solitude Reflects a time aligned with nature’s quiet cycles. Winter doesn’t mean nothing’s happening. It just looks different from the outside. * Rewilding the Self A phrase borrowed from ecological work, now applied to people stepping back from over-structured living. It’s less about chaos and more about realignment with natural patterns. * The Hermit Phase Comes from literature and archetype, especially the Hermit in tarot. It’s about intentional solitude-not running away, but looking inward to move forward. * Earthkeeper Stage This one shows up in Indigenous and ecological circles. It’s less about age or profession and more about perspective: the land isn’t a resource, it’s a relationship. You may not connect with any of these exactly, but you might recognize the impulse behind them. What These Terms Might Mean to Others To others, these terms might sound poetic or vague. But scratch the surface, and there’s depth: * Culturally, they echo traditions where age and experience are tied to land, not legacy brands. * Emotionally, they often mark a turning point-less noise, more intention. * Socially, they might look like withdrawal, but they’re often more about choosing what (and who) you show up for. None of this is trendy. It’s been around longer than the internet. But naming it makes it visible again. What It Means to Me For me, it’s stewardship. Not in the performative sense, but in the day-to-day details: tending to what feeds you, noticing what needs repair, honoring what lasts. I’ve turned my time and energy toward soil, seasons, and the animals in my care, not out of nostalgia, but because it’s where the real work is. I don’t need a label. But I do see the value in giving language to this shift, especially for those standing on the edge of it, wondering if it’s okay to step away from the scroll and into something slower. As Mark Twain once wrote: _“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”_ That quote stays with me. It reinforces my decision to commit fully to Storey’s in the Dirt and life on the farm. Sometimes the shift isn’t just philosophical—it’s a real, concrete choice about how to spend your life. Conclusion: Define It for Yourself If you’re feeling it, name it. You don’t have to explain it, justify it, or package it. But calling it what it is, a turning point, a return, a beginning, might help you move through it with clarity. And it might help others recognize they’re not alone. This is a season worth naming. Not for marketing. For meaning.
•Soil & Microbiology

Local Harvesting Worms

— Local Vermiculture Every now and then, I come across something that just works. No fuss, no fancy tools, just observation, patience, and a bucket. That’s what this is. A bucket of life. I keep it tucked in the shade, somewhere cool and quiet. Inside is a mix of bark, soft rotting wood, a little soil, and whatever forest floor debris I’ve gathered. Occasionally, I’ll splash a bit of water in to keep it damp, but otherwise I let it be. When I’m out working on a new project, maybe laying out a garden bed, pulling back old boards, or moving logs, there’s a good chance I’ll find earthworms underneath. In fact, it’s rare I don’t. That’s when I go back to my bucket. I drop the new worms in, maybe add a handful of soil or a strip of bark from the area. It’s not high-tech. But it works beautifully. One of the main reasons I harvest worms this way is to avoid introducing non-native or invasive species. There have been enough ecological surprises caused by “helpful” introductions that ended up causing more harm than good. Instead, I work with what’s already here. These are the native worms adapted to my land, my climate, and my soil biology. By building up their population naturally, I’m supporting the ecosystem that already exists without upsetting the balance. Once the bucket is full, crawling and thriving, I use it to start a new worm bin. It might go into a compost setup or a garden bed I want to inoculate with life. Sometimes I just use it to recharge a section of tired soil. This isn’t fancy vermiculture. It’s the slow harvest of the helpers already at work beneath our feet. Because sometimes, the best worm farm is already out there, just waiting under a piece of old wood. ![](/images/posts/20250501_152442.jpg) ![](/images/posts/20250501_152447.jpg) ![](/images/posts/20250501_152453.jpg) ![](/images/posts/20250501_152459.jpg) ![](/images/posts/20250501_152516.jpg) ![](/images/posts/20250501_152511.jpg) ![](/images/posts/20250501_152533.jpg) ![](/images/posts/20250501_152536.jpg)
•Composting

What Do Chickens and Forests Have in Common?

— A Gentle Introduction to Korean Natural Farming for Backyard Flocks Have you ever watched chickens scratch around in the woods? They seem at home there—scraping the earth, pecking at plants and bugs, dust bathing under dappled sunlight. It’s the kind of scene that feels ancient, right. And it’s a big clue about how we might care for chickens in a better way. That’s where Korean Natural Farming, or KNF, comes in. Rather than relying on commercial feeds, constant cleaning, or chemical treatments, KNF looks to nature for its blueprint. It asks a simple but powerful question: What if we could recreate the forest floor in our own backyards? * * * Feeding the Soil to Feed the Chicken The heart of KNF isn’t actually the chicken—it’s the _environment_ the chicken lives in. Imagine baking sourdough bread: you don’t just throw flour and water in the oven. You build a living starter first. KNF takes the same approach. It’s about cultivating microbial life in the soil, bedding, and even the air. When you do that, something surprising happens. The chickens start to take care of themselves. Birds raised in a KNF environment often: * Have stronger immune systems * Produce richer, darker yolks * Eat less commercial feed * Smell better (really!) The difference is real—and you can often see it, smell it, and taste it. * * * A Rhythm, Not a To-Do List KNF isn’t about checklists. It’s about learning to move with the seasons. * In spring, you might refresh bedding with forest leaves and add fermented plant juice (FPJ) made from wild greens. * In summer, fruit ferments help cool and balance the bedding system. * In fall, you shift toward minerals and gather more bedding material. * In winter, the deep litter system composts slowly, keeping the coop warm and active under the surface. There’s less micromanaging, more observing. You’re not just “cleaning the coop”—you’re stewarding a small, thriving ecosystem. * * * Why This Matters If you garden, shop at farmers’ markets, or dream of raising animals in a way that feels connected and clean—KNF gives you a new language to work with. One that listens instead of controls. One that partners with nature instead of pushing against it. You don’t need to be a scientist to get started. You just need a little curiosity and a willingness to look at your chickens the way you’d look at a forest—full of life, full of clues. Let the birds lead. They’ve known this way all along.
•Livestock Management

Alternative Ways to Sell Pasture-Raised Pork

Premium— Cooperatives, Meat Shares, and Community Buying Models For small-scale farmers, selling pasture-raised pork directly to consumers can be challenging. High processing costs, fluctuating feed prices, and the need for consistent buyers make it difficult to ensure profitability. Instead of relying solely on farmers' markets or individual meat sales, alternative participation models—such as cooperatives, meat shares, and community-supported meat programs—can help streamline sales, reduce costs, and build a loyal customer base. * * * The Cooperative Model: Shared Resources & Collective Sales What Is a Meat Cooperative? A co-op is a farmer-owned organization that helps multiple farmers pool resources to process, market, and sell meat together. Instead of each farm handling processing and distribution independently, members work collectively to lower costs and expand market reach. Benefits of a Pork Cooperative: ✔ Lower processing costs: Bulk processing can reduce per-pig slaughter fees. ✔ Group marketing efforts: Shared advertising and branding increase exposure. ✔ More consistent supply: Farmers can share inventory to meet demand year-round. ✔ Access to larger buyers: Restaurants and butchers prefer a steady supply. ✔ Better pricing power: Larger operations can negotiate better rates on processing and feed. How to Start a Meat Co-op in NC or SC: 1. Gather interested farmers – Network with local pork producers. 2. Establish a legal structure – Decide if it’s a nonprofit, LLC, or formal co-op. 3. Secure processing partnerships – Find a reliable USDA-inspected butcher. 4. Develop a marketing plan – Sell through an online store, local butchers, or wholesale buyers. 5. Create member agreements – Outline expectations, contributions, and revenue-sharing terms. Examples of Successful Co-ops: * Iowa Food Cooperative – Farmers collectively sell local meat and dairy. * North Carolina Meat Cooperative (hypothetical) – If enough small farmers join, a regional co-op could help lower costs in NC & SC. A cooperative works best when multiple farms collaborate, so if you know other pork producers in your area, this could be a viable option! * * * The Meat Share Model: Community-Supported Pork What Is a Meat Share? A meat share program allows customers to purchase a portion of a pig instead of buying individual cuts. The most common options are: ✔ Whole Hog Share (entire pig, usually 120–150 lbs of meat) ✔ Half Hog Share (60–80 lbs of meat) ✔ Quarter Share (30–40 lbs of meat) Customers pay upfront, and once the pig is processed, they receive their portion. This model reduces waste, helps cash flow, and locks in buyers ahead of time. Benefits of a Meat Share: ✔ Upfront payment – Cash flow is secured before processing. ✔ Less marketing needed – Instead of selling dozens of small cuts, you sell in bulk. ✔ Loyal customers – Repeat customers return for seasonal meat shares. ✔ Easier logistics – Fewer transactions, fewer deliveries, and less inventory to manage. How to Offer a Meat Share: 1. Decide on share sizes and pricing – Price based on hanging weight (e.g., $6.50/lb). 2. Market to local customers – Use social media, email newsletters, and farm events. 3. Collect deposits upfront – Require a deposit to secure the order. 4. Schedule processing – Work with a USDA-approved butcher if selling publicly. 5. Notify customers when meat is ready – Offer farm pickup or local delivery. 💡 Tip: Some farms offer seasonal subscriptions—where customers get a quarterly delivery of assorted cuts—helping with year-round cash flow. * * * Community Bulk Buying: Group Purchases for Cheaper Meat If forming a cooperative is too complex, a community buying model is a simpler way to share costs and bulk process pigs together. How It Works: 1. Find a group of buyers – Families, neighbors, or local food clubs split the cost of a pig. 2. Agree on processing preferences – Cuts, packaging, and additional processing (e.g., smoked bacon). 3. Process in bulk – Lower per-pig slaughter and processing fees. 4. Distribute the meat – Buyers pick up their portion directly from the farm or processor. Why This Works Well: ✔ Lower prices for customers – Buying a share is cheaper than buying individual cuts. ✔ Less farm risk – The pig is sold before it’s processed. ✔ Builds community connections – Local families get high-quality pork at a fair price. 💡 Tip: If you have loyal customers, offer group discounts for those who buy with friends or family! * * * Pork CSAs: Subscription-Based Meat Sales Many vegetable farms offer CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) subscriptions—but you can do the same with pork! How a Pork CSA Works: ✔ Customers subscribe for monthly or quarterly meat deliveries. ✔ Each box contains a mix of cuts (bacon, chops, sausage, etc.). ✔ The farm receives steady, predictable income rather than seasonal bulk sales. 💡 CSA Example Pricing: * Small Box (10 lbs/month) – $95/month * Medium Box (20 lbs/month) – $180/month * Large Box (30 lbs/month) – $250/month Benefits of a Pork CSA: ✔ Consistent revenue – Predictable cash flow for the farm. ✔ Customer retention – People love convenience! ✔ Less waste – You control inventory by balancing cuts in each box. 💡 Tip: Bundle pork with farm eggs, honey, or beef for variety! * * * Which Model is Right for You? Model Best For Pros Challenges Cooperative Multiple farmers working together Lowers costs, larger market access Requires coordination and trust Meat Shares Farmers selling directly to bulk buyers Upfront payment, less marketing Requires customer education Bulk Buying Groups Customers who organize their own purchases Simple, minimal work for the farm Relies on motivated buyers Pork CSA Subscription Farms wanting monthly revenue Predictable income, customer loyalty Requires consistent inventory * * * Final Thoughts Selling pasture-raised pork doesn’t have to rely on individual cut sales—there are multiple ways to build a more sustainable, profitable farm business. ✔ Meat cooperatives help small farms work together to cut costs. ✔ Meat shares simplify sales by selling in bulk. ✔ Community buying groups help lower costs for everyone. ✔ Pork CSAs provide steady, recurring income. 💡 Interested in starting a meat share or co-op? Drop a comment below or share your experience!
•Economy

Marketing Your Pasture-Raised Pork

Premium— Strategies for Small Farms Raising pasture-raised pork is only part of the business—you also need a strong marketing strategy to ensure your hard work translates into profit. Whether you’re selling directly to consumers, at farmers’ markets, or through wholesale channels, here’s how to successfully market your pork in North Carolina and South Carolina. * * * Identify Your Market & Customers Before you start selling, define your target customers. Are you marketing to: * Health-conscious consumers looking for pasture-raised, non-GMO pork? * Chefs and restaurants that value high-quality, heritage breeds? * Local families who want farm-to-table meat? * Ethnic communities that prefer whole-hog purchases for special events? * Specialty butchers and meat shops looking for local suppliers? Understanding your audience helps you tailor your message and pricing. * * * Pricing Your Pork for Profit To set the right price, consider: * Cost of Production: Feed, hay, butchering, processing, and labor. * Market Prices: Look at competitors and local farms. * Premium Positioning: If your pork is pasture-raised and antibiotic-free, it’s worth more than conventional store-bought meat. Pricing Models: * By the pound: Standard pricing per cut (e.g., $10/lb for pork chops, $8/lb for ground pork). * By the whole/half hog: Typically priced based on hanging weight (e.g., $6.50–$8.00 per lb). * Subscription/CSA model: Offer monthly meat boxes with a variety of cuts. If selling direct to consumers, include processing and packaging costs in your pricing. * * * Where to Sell Your Pork Direct-to-Consumer Sales * Farmers' Markets: Set up a stand at local markets in Raleigh, Charlotte, Charleston, or Columbia. * On-Farm Sales: Sell directly from your farm with pre-orders. * Farm Website & Online Stores: Use Shopify, Squarespace, or Local Line to take orders. * Meat CSAs (Community Supported Agriculture): Offer subscriptions where customers receive a set amount of pork monthly. * Home Delivery: Consider local delivery services or partnering with farm co-ops. Wholesale & Bulk Buyers * Local Butcher Shops & Specialty Grocers: Approach independent butchers and high-end grocers. * Restaurants & Chefs: Many farm-to-table restaurants prefer locally sourced pork. * Ethnic Grocery Stores: Some communities purchase whole hogs for traditional cooking. * * * How to Market Your Pork Online Website & Social Media * Have a simple farm website with clear pricing, ordering options, and farm info. * Use Instagram & Facebook to showcase behind-the-scenes farm life and customer testimonials. * Post farm updates, customer stories, and cooking tips to engage your audience. Email Marketing & Customer Loyalty * Build an email list and send updates about pork availability, special deals, and new products. * Offer discounts for repeat customers or referrals. Google & Local SEO * Register on Google My Business so customers can find your farm. * Use keywords like “pasture-raised pork in NC” or “buy local pork near Charleston.” * * * Leveraging Farm-to-Table & Sustainability Messaging Customers are willing to pay more for ethically raised meat. Highlight your farm’s: * Pasture-raised, non-GMO, or soy-free feed practices * Humane treatment of animals * Sustainability practices (regenerative grazing, local feed sourcing) * Transparency (show farm life through videos and photos) Storytelling sells. Share why you raise pigs, how you care for them, and why your pork is different. * * * Overcoming Challenges & Scaling Up Challenge: Competing with grocery store meat prices * Solution: Emphasize quality, ethical farming, and better flavor. Challenge: Processing costs are high * Solution: Partner with other farmers to negotiate better bulk rates. Challenge: Customers hesitate to buy a whole hog * Solution: Offer pre-portioned meat bundles to introduce them to bulk buying. * * * Final Thoughts Marketing pasture-raised pork is about building relationships. By understanding your customers, setting fair prices, and using strong online and in-person sales tactics, you can create a profitable, sustainable pork business. Are you selling pork? Share your marketing tips or challenges in the comments!
•Sustainable Agriculture

KuneKune Pigs: A Beginner Homesteader Guide

— A Beginner Homesteader’s Guide KuneKune pigs are an excellent choice for beginner homesteaders due to their friendly temperament, small size, and ability to thrive on pasture. This guide covers essential aspects of raising KuneKune pigs, from breed selection to sustainable management. * * * Choosing the Right KuneKune for Your Homestead When selecting KuneKune pigs, consider your goals: * Meat production: Choose pigs from lines known for good growth rates and marbling. * Pet or companion animals: Opt for well-socialized piglets with calm temperaments. * Breeding stock: Purchase from reputable breeders who maintain genetic diversity and quality health records. * * * Basic Nutrition: Feeding KuneKune Pigs KuneKunes are natural grazers and do well on pasture, but they require additional nutrition for optimal health. * Pasture: A mix of grasses, clover, and other forage. * Grain or Pellets: Supplement with pig-specific feed, especially for growing piglets and lactating sows. * Hay: Provide in winter or during pasture shortages. * Fruits & Vegetables: Can be used as treats, but avoid toxic foods like onions and green potatoes. * Minerals & Supplements: Ensure access to a mineral block, and supplement with lysine if necessary. * * * Housing & Environmental Needs KuneKunes require simple but sturdy housing: * Shelter: Insulated huts, barns, or mobile shelters with dry bedding (straw or wood shavings). * Fencing: Secure fencing such as woven wire, electric fencing, or hog panels. * Space Requirements: At least ¼ acre per pig for rotational grazing. * Water Supply: Access to clean, fresh water at all times. * * * Health & Common Illnesses Maintaining pig health is crucial for a sustainable homestead. * Common Issues: Worms, lice, and respiratory infections. * Basic Prevention: * Regular deworming (natural or chemical). * Clean housing and rotational grazing. * Routine hoof trimming and parasite checks. * Signs of Illness: Loss of appetite, lethargy, coughing, or skin lesions. * * * Breeding & Lifecycle Management Understanding the lifecycle of KuneKunes helps homesteaders manage breeding and herd growth. * Breeding Age: Boars can breed by 8 months, sows by 10 months. * Gestation: Approximately 116 days (~3 months, 3 weeks, 3 days). * Litter Size: Typically 6-8 piglets. * Weaning: 6-8 weeks, depending on size and health. * * * Sustainable & Ethical Practices KuneKunes are ideal for sustainable homesteading due to their ability to thrive on pasture and integrate into eco-friendly systems. * Rotational Grazing: Prevents overgrazing and improves soil health. * Composting Manure: Reduces waste and enriches garden soil. * Humane Handling: Use positive reinforcement and low-stress handling techniques. * * * Legal & Business Considerations Before selling KuneKune products (meat, breeding stock, manure), check local regulations: * Meat Sales: Requires USDA processing in many regions. * Breeding Stock: Ensure proper registration and health checks. * Manure Sales: Often regulated for raw manure but can be composted and sold as fertilizer. * * * Next Steps KuneKunes are a fantastic addition to any beginner homestead. If you’re ready to get started, consider taking an online course, joining a KuneKune breeders’ group, or purchasing books on small-scale pig farming.
•Livestock Management

KuneKune Pigs: The Friendly, Low-Maintenance Pasture Pig

— The Friendly, Low-Maintenance Pasture Pig KuneKune Pigs: The Friendly, Low-Maintenance Pasture Pig If you’ve ever thought about raising pigs but were put off by the idea of aggressive behavior, rooting destruction, or massive feed bills, meet the KuneKune pig—a small, friendly breed that’s perfect for small farms and backyard homesteads. Where Do KuneKune Pigs Come From? KuneKune (pronounced "coo-nee coo-nee") pigs originated in New Zealand, where they were traditionally kept by the Māori people. Unlike commercial pig breeds, KuneKunes are gentle, small in size, and love grazing—making them one of the easiest pig breeds to raise on pasture. How to Care for KuneKune Pigs What Do They Eat? One of the biggest advantages of KuneKunes is their low feed costs. Unlike most pigs that require grain-heavy diets, these little grazers thrive on pasture, eating grass much like sheep or goats. However, they still need supplemental feed: * Fresh pasture or hay (especially in winter) * Small amounts of pig feed or grain (to balance nutrition) * Vegetable scraps and fruits (as treats) Avoid processed foods, too much fruit, or anything moldy. How Much Space Do They Need? KuneKunes are one of the most space-efficient pig breeds, thanks to their small size (100-250 pounds when mature). They don’t root up the ground as much as other pigs, so they won’t destroy your pastures. A quarter-acre per pig is enough if they have good forage. Shelter and Housing While KuneKunes are hardy, they need basic protection from the elements: * A simple three-sided shelter to block wind and rain * Dry bedding (straw or wood shavings) for warmth * Shade in summer, as pigs don’t sweat and can overheat * Sturdy fencing—though they aren’t escape artists like other pigs, secure fencing is still needed Health and Common Problems KuneKunes are generally healthy and easy to manage, but here are a few key things to watch for: * Parasites – Regular worming and pasture rotation help prevent issues. * Obesity – Since they love to eat, they can easily get overweight. Keep feed balanced. * Sunburn – Their skin can burn in hot climates, so provide shade and a mud wallow. * Hoof care – If kept on soft ground, they may need occasional hoof trimming. Why Raise KuneKune Pigs? KuneKunes are incredibly versatile, making them a great addition to a homestead: * Meat – Produces high-quality pork with excellent marbling * Pasture Management – Natural grazers that help maintain land * Companionship – Gentle and social, they’re fantastic pet pigs * Easy to Handle – Unlike most pigs, they rarely challenge fences or act aggressively Fun Facts and Common Misconceptions * Some KuneKunes grow little dangly wattles (called “piri piri”) under their chin—totally normal and adorable. * Unlike most pigs, KuneKunes prefer grazing over digging, which helps preserve pastures. * KuneKunes are extremely social and enjoy human interaction, even belly rubs. * Many people keep them as pets or to help manage orchards and gardens, not just for meat. Is a KuneKune Right for You? If you’re looking for an easy, low-maintenance pig for a small homestead or even a backyard, the KuneKune is an excellent choice. Whether for meat, land management, or just a friendly farm companion, this unique breed is worth considering. Want to learn more? Visit a local farm, talk to KuneKune breeders, or check out a livestock expo to meet these amazing pigs in person. \[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="4000"\]! Summer piglets Summer piglets \[/caption\]
•Livestock Management

What is a KuneKune Pig

— The KuneKune pig is a small, heritage breed of domestic pig originally from New Zealand. Known for their gentle temperament, grazing ability, and compact size, they have become a popular choice for small farms, homesteads, and even as pets. Here are some key characteristics: Origins & History * Originally bred by the Māori people of New Zealand. * Nearly went extinct in the 1970s but was revived through conservation efforts. * The breed name “KuneKune” means "fat and round" in Māori. Physical Characteristics * Size: Small to medium, typically 100–250 lbs when fully grown. * Body Shape: Stocky with short legs and a round, compact frame. * Snout: Short and upturned, well-adapted for grazing rather than rooting. * Coat: Can be smooth or hairy, with colors including black, white, ginger, brown, cream, or spotted. * Wattles: Many have small, fleshy wattles (tassels) hanging under their chin. Temperament & Behavior * Extremely docile, friendly, and intelligent. * Rarely aggressive, making them ideal for children or beginner pig owners. * Social animals that do well in groups. Grazing & Diet * Unlike other pig breeds that root aggressively, KuneKunes are natural grazers. * Thrive on pasture-based diets, needing less grain than other pigs. * Their gentle foraging habits make them excellent for rotational grazing without damaging land. Uses & Benefits * Homesteading: Great for sustainable pasture-based pork production. * Pets: Due to their friendly nature and smaller size. * Orchards & Vineyards: Used for weed control without excessive rooting. * Conservation: Many farms raise them as part of heritage breed preservation. Pros & Cons ✅ Pros: ✔️ Easy to manage, even for beginners. ✔️ Require less feed than commercial pig breeds. ✔️ Gentle on pastures, great for permaculture systems. ✔️ Hardy and adaptable to various climates. ✔️ Great personalities – social, intelligent, and trainable. ❌ Cons: ✖️ Grow slower than commercial pig breeds. ✖️ Some can become overweight if not managed properly. ✖️ Require access to pasture and social interaction for best health. KuneKunes are an excellent choice for those looking for a sustainable, friendly, and easy-to-raise pig breed. Are you considering raising them?
•Sustainable Agriculture

Beehive Immunity and Biome

— Introduction 1st conversation: So I took a deep dive right out of the gate into Beehive Immunity and Biome and of course the first attempt to meet and record was interrupted by weather. I did an impromptu recording of this presentation, so as to complete the first conversation. Due to scheduling and weather, it is just a presentation. I hope you will all join me next month for a conversation about Equipment Chores. Happy Beekeeping!
•Beekeeping

Hive Happy Hour - Beehive Immunity and Biome

— Introduction 1st conversation: So I took a deep dive right out of the gate into Beehive Immunity and Biome and of course the first attempt to meet and record was interrupted by weather. I did an impromptu recording of this presentation, so as to complete the first conversation. Due to scheduling and weather, it is just a presentation. I hope you will all join me next month for a conversation about Equipment Chores. Happy Beekeeping!
•Beekeeping

Farm Tour at Taylor Family Farm

— Find the Taylor Family Farm at www.taylorfamilyfarmtn.com ![](/images/posts/20210310_102956.jpg) ![](/images/posts/20210310_103008-lll.jpg) ![](/images/posts/20210310_103601.jpg) ![](/images/posts/20210310_103730.jpg) ![](/images/posts/20210310_103902.jpg) ![](/images/posts/20210310_104008.jpg) ![](/images/posts/20210310_104145.jpg) ![](/images/posts/20210310_104207.jpg) ![](/images/posts/20210310_104208.jpg) ![](/images/posts/20210310_104258.jpg) ![](/images/posts/20210310_104721.jpg) ![](/images/posts/20210310_105343.jpg) ![](/images/posts/20210310_105844.jpg) ![](/images/posts/20210310_110405.jpg) ![](/images/posts/20210310_110640.jpg) ![](/images/posts/20210310_110712.jpg) ![](/images/posts/20210310_110816.jpg) ![](/images/posts/20210310_111136.jpg)
•Sustainable Agriculture

Socializing Chicks

— A Gentle Guide to Introducing New Chicks to Your Flock: There’s something magical about adding new chicks to your existing flock. The peeping of tiny fluff balls, the excitement of fresh energy in the coop—it’s enough to warm any chicken keeper’s heart. But as much as we’d love for our established hens to welcome them with open wings, the reality is that chickens have a social hierarchy, and new arrivals can ruffle some feathers. To ensure a smooth transition, it’s important to introduce new chicks gradually, giving both the newcomers and your existing flock time to adjust. Here’s a step-by-step guide to making the process as peaceful as possible. Let Them Grow First Chicks should be at least six to eight weeks old before they join the flock. They need time to grow, feather out, and develop enough confidence to hold their own. Smaller chicks are at greater risk of bullying, so giving them a strong start will help set them up for success. See, But No Touch One of the best ways to introduce new chicks is to allow them to be seen but not touched. A temporary wire enclosure within your main coop or run will let both groups get used to each other’s presence without physical confrontation. Give them a few days to observe and communicate through the safety of the barrier. The Safe Introduction Zone After about a week of separation, allow brief supervised mingling in a neutral space—somewhere unfamiliar to both groups. This reduces territorial disputes and helps both parties feel more comfortable. Keep an eye out for signs of aggression, and be prepared to intervene if necessary. The Overnight Method Once the older hens seem used to the presence of the chicks, one of the easiest ways to integrate them is by adding the chicks to the roost in the middle of the night. Chickens are less likely to be aggressive when they wake up together, as they instinctively accept who is around them in the morning. This method often shortens the transition period and minimizes stress for both the new and old members of the flock. Be sure to check in at dawn to ensure a peaceful start to the day. Provide Extra Feed and Space To prevent food-related squabbles, add extra feeders and water stations. This ensures everyone has access to resources and reduces competition. Additionally, having multiple perches, hideaways, and dust-bathing spots will give the chicks room to escape any overly assertive hens. Observe the Pecking Order Chickens naturally establish a social hierarchy, and a little pecking is normal. However, if you notice excessive aggression, such as relentless chasing, feather plucking, or injuries, you may need to separate the chicks again and extend the introduction period. A useful trick to distract from pecking is to hang a red cloth or introduce other red objects in the coop. Chickens are naturally drawn to the color red, and focusing on the cloth can reduce aggressive behavior towards new flock members. This simple distraction can make a big difference in creating a calmer integration process. Chickens naturally establish a social hierarchy, and a little pecking is normal. However, if you notice excessive aggression, such as relentless chasing, feather plucking, or injuries, you may need to separate the chicks again and extend the introduction period. Patience and Positive Reinforcement Some flocks adapt quickly, while others take a bit longer to accept new members. Your patience will go a long way in ensuring a stress-free transition. Offering treats when the flock is calm and peaceful can also create positive associations with their new companions. A Happy, Harmonious Coop Successfully integrating new chicks into your flock is a rewarding experience that deepens the bonds between you and your birds. With a slow, thoughtful approach, your flock will soon be scratching, pecking, and dust-bathing together in harmony. So, whether you’re expanding your backyard coop or raising a new generation of feathered friends, taking the time to socialize them properly will lead to a thriving, happy flock. And really, is there anything better than watching chickens of all ages enjoying life together?
•Livestock Management

A Chicken Chat with Chef Gale Gand

— Introduction Below is the conversation Gale and I had about the joy of backyard chickens. Gale and I met in a FB Group conversation when she shared her chicken therapy story and how having fresh eggs has been fun for her as a chef. This past year of the pandemic has opened so many homes to the joy of raising chickens. I would love to hear how chickens have changed your life! @storeysinthedirt Check out what Gale is up to on FB @chefgalegand
•Livestock Management

Coffee and a Farmer's most important tool!

— Introduction First things first put the coffee on and check the weather. I don’t have a TV and have not for most of my adult life. So no weather channel for me, I use weather apps. Weather apps are awesome! The only problem with weather apps is just like every other app on the planet, they get updated and change. MyRadar has been my favorite app for years. Recently, it updated to a bubbly format with lots of hot pinks and neon blues and greens. Just like the coffee lady who is too chipper in the morning, the app is now too much for this old lady. It’s still a great app, so I have just moved it to the background (fingers crossed they do another update). In my search for a new app, I have landed on three apps MyRadar (in the background), Windy, and wOw. Windy has the best Widgets. I can quickly get an overview of the weather, but the fonts are small. In order to get the detail, I have to open the app, which I find cumbersome and not as user friendly as other apps. wOw is by far my favorite app. The format is not only pleasing and intuitive, but I can arrange the content as I see fit. In comparison to whether monitors I have on the property, it is very accurate and dependable. What is your favorite weather app? Share your story with me at: FB @StoreysintheDirt Instagram @storeysinthedirt Twitter @storeysindirt MeWe @Storey's in the Dirt Tumblr @Storeysinthedirt Snapchat @Storey's in the Dirt
•Sustainable Agriculture

Cold Stress and Chickens

— Introduction According to Gail Damerow, in The Chicken Health Handbook, a chicken’s body temps for chickens runs between 105F and 107F (40.6C and 41.7C). When a chicken goes without food for a day, their body temps can drop 2.5F (1.4C), and another degree for every day without food. However, when the temps drop the bird’s metabolism speeds up. Providing adequate food and water, will help your chickens endure the cold temps. You may see them fluff up and hunker down, shifting from one foot to the other. Do not worry, this is normal. Just like we need air in between our layers of clothing for insulation, a chicken will ruffle its feather’s creating pockets of air for insulation. Their blood flow reduces to their extremities, also cutting back on the release of heat through the feet, waddles, and combs. In addition to feed and water, their environment plays a big role in their health. Providing dry locations for the birds in the field to hunker beneath helps to keep them out of the snow, sleet, and rain. Clean bedding such as hay can help to absorb water from snow and ice melting from returning birds. When they bed down for the night, make sure the coop has ventilation, but not drafts. People keep asking, what is the difference between ventilation and drafts? Gail suggests a test to determine if the coop is too drafty. “Hold a strip of lightweight paper in the roosting area. If the strip moves, the coop is too drafty” paraphrased. Good ventilation will limit a buildup of condensation or humidity in the coop, which can accumulate on chicken feathers. Ventilation is high in the coop and allows for an exchange of air inside and outside. No breeze. Good ventilation will also limit the build up of pressure within the coop, which could affect more fragile structures. One last note, on cold nights, as tempting as it may be, there is no need to put a heat source in the coop. This can be a fire hazard. Also, when chickens leave the coop, they can experience shock from the changing environments.
•Livestock Management

IT’S GOING TO BE A FANTABULOUS 2021! JOIN US ON OUR JOURNEY

— Introduction The farm is now in a very interesting location due to the fact that we have no top soil, yet….Well, I have started manifesting soil….with the help of the pigs and chickens.  If you know me you know my “Happy, Healthy, Safe and Strong” moto.  As a parent, my job is to make sure my kids are Happy, Healthy, Safe and Strong.  So they can grow up to be HHSS.  Then when they have children they can be, you guessed it, HHSS.  Well, I have approached my farm with the same philosophy.  I want the plants, animals _(large and microscopic_), insects _(beneficial and sometimes not so much),_ fungus _(edible to working),_ soil _(and it’s biome),_ water _(and it’s biomes),_ and even bacteria working for the farm, to be HAPPY, HEALTHY, SAFE, AND STRONG.  To that end and for the For the Love of Experiments…This year I will share experiments and experiences here on the farm.  Should be exciting (finger crossed).  We’ll have Coffee with Critters and put our Hands in the Dirt.  I’m going to share with you some of the ways we Close the Gaps and try some new ways to stack farm enterprises without breaking the back.  We have an awful lot to do, but I have learned to Keep it Simple Sally and encourage you to do the same.  Because at the end of the day we want to look out over our farm and Enjoy the View!
•Livestock Management

WHAT STOREY’S IN THE DIRT MEANS TO ME.

— Introduction 1\. The dirt under my nails and in the creases of my hands after a day of working in the soil.  2. The joy I feel when my kids work the farm with me.  3. Every wonderful, painful, new experience that adds to our own stories.  4.  All the wonderful and some not so wonderful people who we have encountered on our journey.  I love to meet farmers, gardeners, ranchers, bakers, fermenters, canners, homesteaders, poultry people, crafters, creators, bee people….there are just so many people, and they are amazing!  I love to hear their stories.  In fact, I get in trouble all the time, because I take too long talking to people, well listening to people too.
•Food as Medicine

The fruit or NO FRUIT? of our labor! 

— Garden Week Twenty 8/21/2018 The fruit or NO FRUIT? of our labor! ![](/images/posts/Just-a-few-of-the-bees-I-have-seen-in-my-own-garden-check-out-more-awesome-bee-photos-on-flickr-USGS-Bee-Inventory-and-Monitoring-Lab.jpg) Just a few of the bees I have seen in my own garden - check out more awesome bee photos on Flickr - USGS Bee Inventory and Monitoring Lab As you can imagine, I enjoy reading and sharing stories of the garden. Recently, I have seen many posts on local FB groups, asking why plants are not producing? Common troubles in the garden include pests and diseases, but why would a healthy plant not be productive? Or simply, pollination. Without going into a biology lesson, vegetables are pollinated by means of self or cross pollination. Self-pollination: plants which produce flowers containing both male and female organs. These plants can be pollinated within the same flower or by the same plant. \*includes: lima, pole and bush beans, peas, tomatoes, lettuce and endive, etc. Cross-pollination: plants which produce either male of female flowers, in which pollen from the male flower must be transferred to the female flower by either insect, wind or other means. \*wind pollination: spinach, chard, beets, and corn. \*Insect-pollination: Most plants: from melon, gourds, cucumbers, eggplants to kales, cabbages, kohlrabi, to peppers, herbs, radish, turnips and many more. But what to do in a greenhouse or where pollinators are lacking? In a small garden, manual pollination methods are cheap and easy to do. For those plants which are self-pollinators: 1. Gentle tapping or rustling of the plant can be enough to stimulate pollination. 2. A fan set to oscillate can replicate the wind and again stimulate pollination. 3. Using a paintbrush or Q-tip can move pollen around. 4. Tuning forks struck to sing, will cause a vibration similar to that of the bumble bee, which the bumble uses to coax the pollen free from many plants. ![](/images/posts/Moths-can-help-in-pollination-too.jpg) Moths can help in pollination too! 5. An electric toothbrush has been suggested to both replicate the bumble bee and manually move the pollen. For those plants which are cross-pollinators: 1. Using a paintbrush or Q-tip can move pollen around. 2. Take a male flower, remove the petals, while holding the base of the flower or stem, place the male stamen or antler into the female flower. Move the stamen or antler around the pistil to cover with pollen. But what if you have a ton of plants, or don’t have the time to hand pollinate? As we have discussed in a previous article, you can try to attract native bees to your garden. But that takes time and the season is running short. Bumblebees! Unlike honey bees, bumble bees do not require a lot of work. They are solitary and happy to put keep their noses in the flowers, making them a great benefit to a greenhouse, or area lacking pollinators. Additionally, bumble bees are much cheaper and less maintenance than the lovely honey bee. However, don’t forget, bumble bees do not make honey. A word of caution. If your outdoor garden is lacking in pollinators, you may have a bigger problem with chemicals or pests or disease. Before investing in such things as bees or beneficial bugs, you should look for your local cause of pollinator depopulation. I say this because, yesterday I saw at least 6 different kinds of bees in my garden. This means the bees are in the area. If you no find cause for the lack of pollinators, it is advisable to encourage local pollinators to move in as they are designed to live here in our areas. Do not introduce foreign bugs to the area as they may become invasive, causing you and your neighbors unexpected problems. Hoping everyone has a bountiful harvest! _Happy Gardening!_
•Beekeeping

Can Flood Irrigation Coexist with Urban Development?

— Garden Week Nineteen 8/14/2018 Can Flood Irrigation Coexist with Urban Development? A common ditch gate which is easy to use and reliable. What is Flood Irrigation? Possibly the oldest form of irrigation wherein water is delivered by ditch or pipe through the means of gravity and water pressure to fill a parcel of land several inches deep with water. While this is not the most efficient form of irrigation, it is still often used today for both agricultural uses as well as in urban areas for lawns and gardens. Back in the day, for many, this was the only way to get water to the crops. To facilitate access to water, companies were formed, and a person purchased a share or shares of the company, making them a shareholder and giving the shareholder “Water Rights”. These companies and shareholders worked together to build vast networks of the canals and ditches we live with today. As the old saying goes “never give up your water rights”, which we know can affect a property’s value. But how does the changing dynamics of Urban development impact the long-held tradition of flood irrigation? I have thought about this question many times over the past year and half, when I moved into a house which has water rights. The water arrives via a ditch on the backside of the property once a week for a set number of hours. Unfortunately, the first year was not so smooth. We received the water at 9am, 12pm, 6pm, 2 am, or not at all. This simple method seemed unreliable and inadequate. We wondered if we could justify continuing to participate let alone paying for water shares every year. Over the winter I became curious, why was this apparently simple method so complicated? To get some hands-on experience and hopefully get some answers I, possibly foolishly, took on the position of ditch rider for our local neighborhood ditch company. Which turned into a time-consuming challenge. A challenge I whole-heartedly took on. It was my goal to make sure everyone had an opportunity to receive water. I have not been able to guarantee how much water everyone gets, but at the very least it has been my intention to get everyone the time to try to get their water. Sometimes the water pressure is so low a person only gets a trickle. Other times the same person may be flooded in half their allotted time. Why is this so unpredictable? Largely this is due to the condition of the gates and the ditch itself. At times, it is due to the pressure at the head gate. Other times, there is no apparent reason for the water flow to be more or less. ![](/images/posts/Keeping-ditches-clean-will-prevent-property-damage-or-water-in-the-street.-Nice-job.jpg) Keeping ditches clean will prevent property damage or water in the street.  Nice job! Speaking from a more urban experience, and prior to moving into this house, I had a sprinkler system. In the spring it had to be primed and turned on after the last freeze. The sprinklers and lines were tested and fixed where needed. My water was timed to my allotted watering days and by the end of the summer my yard was usually crispy. In the fall, the lines were purged and turned off in preparation of the freeze, just like most people in America. Flood irrigation is a totally different experience. We use a pump to get water to the front corner of the yard, where the flood water does not reach, but I do not feel that I put any more effort into flood irrigation than I did into my sprinkler systems. In fact, I quite like the time I spend in yard with my fire hydrant-like hose. If you recall being a kid playing in the yard, you can relate to how I sometimes feel when watering the year. On-the-whole, the water flows reliably allowing many of my neighbors and myself to enjoy plush green grass with little effort and a smaller utility bill. So long as the neighborhood continues to maintain our ditch and work together to take turns with the water; flood irrigation will remain a part our summer routine. So long as neighborhoods continue to do the same, I see no reason why the continued urban development cannot coexist with some of the areas older traditions. _Happy Gardening!_
•Sustainable Agriculture