soil test & prep
Garden Week Two 4/2/2018:
Test & Prep – Organized: Review books and test directions prior to starting. Keeping these items handy will make quick reference easy.
Soil Test & Prep
There are little bits of color springing from the dirt here and there. This is a sure sign it is time to start prepping the garden. Yesterday, we raked off the winter mulch to relieve the pressure on the daffodils, tulips, and hyacinths. Then cleared the remnants of vegetable debris from last year’s vegetable garden and inspected the strawberry beds. This is the perfect time to make amendments to the soil. Before putting on fertilizers, manures, compost, or other soil amendments, it is a good idea to test the soil.
“Soil biology is the engine of your garden. Learn to harness its full potential by understanding how it works.” – Jean-Martin Fortier
Most garden sections at your favorite store will have rapid soil tests. These will cost anywhere from $7 - $15. Rapid soil tests work great for the most basic information and ease of use. If you would like more detailed information you may decide to go with a garden soil testing kit. These kits can get a bit more spendy, going for as little as $20 to as much as $100 per kit. In these kits will get what you pay for…more information and the ability to test more dirt samples, many more samples in some kits. While these soil test kits will give you information, if you are experiencing difficulties with your plants, you may consider sending your soil to a laboratory. Laboratory testing, while more expensive, can test your soil for many purposes. Should you decide to go this route, speak with a consultant at your chosen laboratory.
Here in Southeast Idaho, I have observed several types of soil. As a new gardener to the Snake River Area, I am learning that we have a variety of soil types not too far apart from each other. Understanding your soil’s organic, sand and clay content is just as important as understanding your Ph, macro and micronutrient values.
A simple at home test can give you an idea of your soil’s structure.
Take about 1 cup soil from various location throughout the garden, mix well.
Place in a clear container (I used a large mason jar), about half full. Mark dirt level.
Fill container about ¾ full of water. Shae vigorously 2-3 minutes.
Let soil setting for 30 seconds, mark top of the soil “sand line”. Wait 3 minutes and mark again “silt line.”
Estimate the difference between each line and the original dry soil line, accounting for the sand line. Everything above the silt line is clay. ~ Steps found in “Building Soil” by Elizabeth Murphy. Check out this book for lots of great information.
No matter how you decide to test your soil, you will be better informed on the condition of your garden’s foundation and what amendments may or may not be needed.
Happy Gardening!
Words of wisdom:
A few rules of thumb to consider whether soil testing is in your future or not. These simple bits on knowledge shared by most gardeners hold true no matter where you garden or what soil you start with.
Rotate planting of heavy feeders like tomatoes, peppers, and potatoes from the Solanaceae family to the same location no more than every four years. While corn is not of the same family, it is a very heavy feeder which should be treated with the same rule.
Companion planting can be an effective method of mitigating nutrient loss, adding valuable organic material to the soil and help with pest control. A lovely and popular companion trio would be The Three Sisters: usually consisting of Corn, Peas and a squash or pumpkin. The corn acts a trellis to the peas. The peas add valuable organic material for the corn. The squash acts a ground cover pushing out weeds and shading the ground against the summer sun.
Some plants like wet feet. Many do not. Before planting observe the garden in the rain. This will give you an idea of where water may settle or drain more quickly. Use this information to either repair or alter the garden prior to planting, or aid in planning decisions.
